red beet risotto

I do believe that beets are my very favorite spring vegetable. They are quickly overshadowed by tomatoes in Summer, but in May and June I could eat beets every other day. Typically I am a fan of simply roasting the globes and tossing them on a salad with chevre and a light vinaigrette. But every now and then, when I am feeling the need for something a bit more toothy and substantial I'll whip up a batch of risotto. I love the sweetness that roasted beets lend to the savory dish, and of course the vibrant hue that even a picky toddler wouldn't be able to resist.

I"ll admit...I've already written about red beet risotto here, years ago, when we were growing beets in our very own garden. The recipe has changed a bit, and the photographs have certainly improved, but I still love that first post because of its words about our little veggie patch. We're still growing beets this year, although out on Maple Hill Farm rather than just to the side of our house. And this recipe is still a favorite, one that I felt was appropriate to bring up again now that we're at the height of beet season here in Charlottesville. Plus, I just couldn't resist the urge to re-photograph the dish in all of its neon-pink glory, in proper lighting, with less distraction. It deserves to be the star of the show!

These days, I'm adding the beet greens directly to the risotto, rather than cooking them up on the side. They don't add much flavor to the dish, but I do like the additional texture and all of the nutrients packed into the deep green leaves. Thanks to the New York Times for that little suggestion.

Red Beet Risotto

from the new york times

serves 4 as a main course

Ingredients

• 3/4 pound beets (1 small bunch of 3 to 4)
• 1 bunch beet greens, stemmed and washed (from your beets, if fresh and unwilted. leave them out if they are past their prime)
• 6 to 7 cups chicken or vegetable stock, as needed
• 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
• 1/2 cup finely chopped onion
• 1-1/2 cups arborio rice
• 2 garlic cloves
• 1/2 cup dry white wine
• salt
• freshly ground pepper
• 1/2 cup parmesan cheese, grated
• 2 tbsp finely chopped flat-leaf parsley

Method

1. First, roast the beets. Preheat your oven to 400°. Wrap the beets in aluminum foil and place on a baking sheet. Roast for about 20 minutes, until the beets are easily pierced with a fork.  Remove from oven and allow to cool, then peel and dice the beets.  The skin should slide off easily.
2. Slice the greens into 1-inch strips, set aside.
3. Place the stock in a medium sauce pan and bring to a simmer, then reduce heat to low.
4. In a large, wide, heavy-bottom saute pan, heat the oil over medium. Add the onion and stir while cooking until it starts to soften, about 3 minutes. Add the rice and the garlic and stir while cooking until the rice is separate and starting to crackle, about 3 minutes.
5. Stir in the wine and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly. When the wine has just about evaporated, add in 1 ladleful of stock (about 1/2 cup) just to cover the rice. The stock should bubble slowly (adjust heat). Cook, stirring occasionally, until the stock is nearly absorbed, then add another ladleful. Continue to cook in this fashion, not too fast and not too slowly, stirring often and adding more stock when the rice is dry, for about 10 minutes.
6. Stir in the diced beets and sliced greens. Add more stock and continue cooking as before, for another 10-15 minutes, adding stock when the rice is dry. The rice should be tender but not mushy, with no hardness at the middle. When it has reached the correct consistency, season with salt + pepper. Add the parmesan cheese and the parsley, and stir to combine. The rice should be creamy, if it is not, add another 1/2 cup of stock.
7. Adjust seasonings and serve.

blueberry lemon tartlets

There have been a lot of sweets around here lately. I would apologize, but this little blog is a glimpse into my kitchen and sweets are what I am craving these days. Ice cream. And popsicles. And tiny tartlets with fresh fruit mounded on top. Even though Summer has officially just arrived, here in Virginia you'd think she'd been around for at least the last month.  And when Summer lands firmly on our dry + crispy lawn I like for the food passing my lips to be cool and refreshing, laden with flavors of citrus and berry. Of course, there are salads abounding as well, but salads aren't nearly as much fun to photograph, write about, or share here in this space. Except that I've been slicing kumquats to sprinkle overtop of my spinach lately and that, my friends, is a really good idea. If you can find kumquats in your area I suggest you give it a try, I think you'll be pleased.

While you're out, pick up a few pints of fresh blueberries, and then hurry home to whip up these sweet little tartlets. The blueberries are such a nice accompaniment to the sharp tang of lemon curd nestled within the butter pastry. You'll only need one of those pints for this recipe, but if you're like me you won't be able to resist eating berries by the handful as you prep. 

Oh! And if you're in central Virginia, pick up the Summer issue of Flavor Magazine. Not only because Flavor is a wonderful resource for sustainable eating in the Capital Foodshed, but because you may just recognize a photograph in the Pairings section on page 79...!

Happy Summer, friends!

Chantilly cream is one of my great pleasures. I experienced it for the first time at K-Paul's in New Orleans when it was served with my cafe au lait, and I just about licked the bowl. Sprinkled with dried lavender, it is a lovely accompaniment to sweet blueberries. Add in the lemon curd and butter pastry and you've got quite the divine dessert.

I should also note that I've never, ever been able to achieve a non-shrinking tart or pie crust. This recipe is suggested by Joy of Cooking for tartlets specifically because the pastry is not supposed to shrink, but, mine still did. Apparently pastry dough and I just don't get along. I'm working on it.

Blueberry Lemon Tartlets with Chantilly Cream + Lavender

crust and curd recipes from The Joy of Cooking, chantilly cream recipe from Chef Paul Prudhomme's Louisiana Kitchen

makes (6) 4-inch tartlets, with some leftover lemon curd and chantilly cream (darn!)

Pastry

• 1 cup plus 2 tbsp all-purpose flour
• 1 tbsp white sugar or 2 tbsp powdered sugar
• 1/4 tsp salt
• 6 tbsp (3/4 stick) cold unsalted butter
• 3 oz cold cream cheese
• 2 to 3 tbsp cold heavy cream

Lemon Curd

• 1 cup sugar
• 8 tbsp unsalted butter (1 stick), cut into small pieces
• 8 large egg yolks
• 1/2 cup strained fresh lemon juice (from 2 to 3 lemons)
• 1 tbsp grated lemon zest, plus more for garnish

Chantilly Cream

• 2/3 cup heavy cream
• 1 tsp vanilla extract
• 1 tsp brandy
• 1 tsp Grand Marnier
• 1/4 cup sugar
• 2 tbsp dairy sour cream

Assembly

• 1 pint fresh blueberries
• 1 tsp dried lavender

Method

1. Place a medium-size bowl and beaters in the refrigerator, to be used for the chantilly cream.
2. To make the pastry, whisk together the flour, sugar, and salt. Cut the butter and cream cheese into 1/4-inch pieces. Using a pastry blender or 2 knives, cut the butter and cream cheese into the dry ingredients until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs with some pea-sized pieces. Drizzle the heavy cream over the mixture and cut in with the blade side of a rubber spatula, or stir with a fork until the dough begins to gather into moist clumps. Press the dough into a flat disk, wrap tightly in plastic, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 2 days.
3. On a lightly floured work surface, roll the dough about 1/8 inch thick, then cut into rounds wide enough to cover the bottom and sides of your tartlet pans, with 1 to 1.5 inches extra dough to spare. Press the dough rounds into the pans, then fold the overhanging dough back on itself over the crust sides, doubling their thickness. Press the doubled dough firmly to seal, then thoroughly prick the sides and bottoms with a fork. Arrange the crusts on a baking sheet and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.
4. Position a rack in the center of your oven and preheat to 400°F. Bake the crusts for 5 to 7 minutes, then prick the bottoms of any that have puffed. Continue to bake until the crusts are golden brown and firm to the touch, 12 to 15 minutes more.
5. For the lemon curd, preheat your oven to 350°F. Combine the sugar and butter in a heat proof bowl. Bring 1-inch of water to a bare simmer in a skillet, and set the bowl of sugar and butter in the skillet. Stir until the butter is melted, and remove the bowl from the skillet. Add the egg yolks and beat until no yellow streaks remain. Stir in the lemon juice and return the bowl to the skillet. Heat the mixture over medium heat, stirring gently until it thickens to the consistency of heavy cream and lightly coats a spoon, 6 to 8 minutes. Strain the lemon mixture through a clean fine-mesh sieve into a bowl, then stir in the lemon zest.
6. Pour the filling into the tart crusts. Bake the tartlets until the center looks set but still very quivery, like gelatin, when the pan is nudged, for 15 to 20 minutes. Let cool completely on a rack.
7. Meanwhile, make the chantilly cream. Combine the cream, vanilla, brandy, and Grand Marnier in the chilled bowl and beat with an electric mixer on medium speed for 1 minute. Add the sugar and sour cream and beat on medium just until soft peaks form, about 3 minutes. Do no overbeat!!!
8. To assemble, pile blueberries on top of each tartlet. Add a generous dollop of chantilly cream and sprinkle with fresh lavender and lemon zest.
9. If you make the tarts ahead, lightly oil sheets of plastic wrap and press directly on the filling in each tartlet. They can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 1 day. Dress with blueberries and chantilly cream when ready to serve.

dulce de leche cupcakes

There's something in the water around here. It seems as if Brian and I are surrounded by friends having babies! We have officially become the only couple amongst our close Charlottesville friends who does not have a tiny addition to the family. And, it kind of freaks me out. Just a bit. We're not ready for all of that yet, but it sure does get the gears in your head turning when you're tickling those tiny toes or witnessing first giggles. Those turning gears, they're something that I was never all that sure I would experience and now that I am...wow. Mind-boggling. Brian has asked me more than once who I am and what I've done with his wife, for this whole biological clock thing was never something that either one of us gave a whole lot of merit. Well it exists, I assure you.

The arrival of these tiny humans brings along something that I can wrap my mind around...baby parties. The kind where both men and women are invited, and the focus is on good food and fun [yard] games and great friends giving advice to the new parents-to-be. I love an excuse to plan a party, and the arrival of a new being sure seems like a wonderful reason to celebrate! 

A couple of Saturdays ago I helped to plan a baby party for our good friends Tommy and Kristin. Their little girl arrives in just over a month, and we couldn't be more excited and happy for them! This party was a fiesta of sorts, decorated with bright balloons and citrus-y hues. We had carnitas tacos, and veggie tacos, and cilantro lime slaw, guacamole, black beans, and dulce de leche cupcakes. I fully intended to photograph the carnitas to share with you but, well, when you're co-hosting the party it is tough to remember to pick up your camera. I did manage to capture some images of the cupcakes, so they will have to do. I promise, you won't be disappointed.

These cupcakes come from Joy, who never ceases to amaze me with the cleverness of her recipes. If I think of something, chances are Joy's already done it. And every single recipe I've ever tried of hers has been a winner, so I typically don't question her methods. This was no exception. Seriously, who could go wrong with cream cheese and dulce de leche whipped into a buttercream frosting? It is one of the best things you'll ever taste, I promise.

Dulce de Leche Cupcakes

from joy the baker

makes 24 cupcakes

For the Cupcakes:

• 3 cups all-purpose flour
• 1/4 cup cornstarch
• 1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
• 1 1/2 teaspoons baking soda
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened
• 1 cup brown sugar
• 1/2 cup granulated sugar
• 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
• 3 large eggs
• 1 1/2 cup buttermilk

For the Frosting:

• 8 ounces cream cheese, softened
• 1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened
• 3/4 cup dulce de leche (I used canned, Nestle brand, dulce de leche. Not the best, and next time I'll find a better brand, but it still worked well in the frosting.)
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 2 to 3 cups powdered sugar

To make the cupcakes:

1. Place racks in the center and upper third of the oven and preheat to 350 degrees F.  Line two cupcake pans with paper or foil liners.  Set aside.
2. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, cornstarch, baking powder, baking soda and salt.  Set aside.
3. In the bowl of an electric stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, add butter and sugars.  Beat on medium speed until fluffy and pale brown, about 3 minutes.   Stop the mixer, scrape down the sides of the bowl and add one egg.  Beat on medium for one minute.  Add the remaining eggs, one at a time, beating for one minute between each addition.  Stop the bowl and scrape down the sides as necessary. Beat in vanilla extract.
4. Add half of the flour mixture to the egg and butter mixture.  Beat on low speed and slowly drizzle in the buttermilk.  Beat until just incorporated.  Stop the mixer, scrape down the bowl and add the rest of the dry ingredients.  Beat on low speed until just incorporated.  Remove the bowl from the stand mixer and finish incorporating with a spatula.  Try not to over mix.
5. Divide the batter between the prepared cupcake pans, filling each liner about 2/3 full.  Bake for 18 to 20 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the center of one of the cakes comes out clean.  Let rest in the cupcake pans before removing to a wire rack to cool completely.  Cupcakes should be completely cooled before frosting.

To make the frosting:

1. Place cream cheese in the bowl of an electric stand mixer.  Beat on medium speed for about 30 seconds, until very soft and pliable.  Stop the mixer, scrape down the sides of the bowl and add the butter and dulce de leche.  Beat on medium speed until well incorporated.  Stop the mixer and add the salt and powdered sugar.  Beat on medium speed for about 3 minutes, until fluffy and lighter in color.  
2. Use a large frosting tip to swirl the frosting onto the tops of the cupcakes.
3. Garnish with fleur de sel, or coarse sea salt.

For more pictures of Tommy + Kristin's baby party, visit the AHPhoto blog!

citrus popsicles for grown-ups

Two weeks ago I collaborated on a photography session with Soiree. and Rock Paper Scissors. Actually, it was a 6-week process of planning, shopping, meeting, envisioning, and shopping some more. The result was this Mid-Century Modern Wedding concept shoot that I shared on Andrea Hubbell Photography today, and I couldn't be more proud of what we created! I've said it before, but I love my job!!! These adult popsicles were created to help set the mood for a fun afternoon wedding and meal, meant to cool down energetic dancers when they step off the floor. 

I've only recently discovered Aperol, an Italian aperitif similar to Campari, but with more sugar and less alcohol. It is a blend of bitter orange, gentian rhubarb, and an assortment of herbs and roots. It happens to complement grapefruit juice beautifully, and adds a nice kick of color to a classic greyhound, or these popsicles that required an extra bit of orange to fit in with our 'wedding' decor. 

You have no idea how hard it is to find a simple, cylindrical popsicle mold! So, instead, I used double shot glasses and 'cookie sticks' bought at a craft store. The shot glasses worked really well, provided a place to wrap the fun pattern created by Rock Paper Scissors, and looked adorable!

Aperol Citrus Popsicles (fit for a wedding...)

Ingredients

• 1 cup sugar
• 1 cup water
• 3 cups grapefruit or orange juice (pulp free...fresh is best)
• 1/2 cup Aperol

Method

1. Mix the water and sugar together in a small pan over a low heat, and bring up to boil until the sugar dissolves. Allow the simple syrup to boil for 4 minutes, remove from heat and cool (makes a little over 1 cup).
2. Combine the citrus juice and Aperol and add 1 cup of the cooled syrup. Adjust to taste: for the grapefruit pops, you may want to add a tablespoon or two extra syrup if you prefer them less tart. Remember, the mixture will taste slightly sweeter in liquid form than it does when frozen.
3. Pour into popsicle molds and freeze at least 8 hours or overnight. To remove, run the molds quickly under hot water, and gently pull out the pops.

banana pudding ice cream

There are a few foods that take me way, way back to my childhood. Orange danishes. Cheesecake. Anything combining peanut butter and banana. My momma's macaroni and cheese, her banana bread, and especially her banana pudding. Do you see a trend here? Banana popped up several times...I really, really, like banana. So you can imagine my excitement when my Charlottesville friend Stephanie, someone whom I think very well could have been separated from me at birth, brought homemade banana pudding ice cream to her dinner table one evening. And then again when Steph was spending an afternoon at my house, pointed to the pile of overripe bananas on my counter and said "Let's make ice cream! Right now." And now, when I sneak out to the kitchen mid-day, slip a spoon from a drawer, and sink it into the container of what's left for an afternoon pick-me-up. 

This flavor will forever remind me of my Momma. Banana pudding was one of my very favorite edibles while growing up, but sitting here today I can't remember ever making it for myself as an adult. Its the kind of recipe that mommas make, and until I am one, I don't know that I will. But this ice cream, it takes the best of what banana pudding is...the creamy texture, the crunch of vanilla wafers, the real bananas puréed smooth...and creates a simple, elegant, dinner-party-worthy dessert. One that leaves you mostly speechless, lost in thought, and thoroughly happy.

My life has been a little sweeter lately because of banana pudding ice cream mingled with memories of home and youth. Steph, I owe you. Big time.

I wish that I could take credit for this fabulous recipe, but I cannot.  This one I owe to my dear friend Stephanie, ice cream goddess and all-around awesome lady.

Banana Pudding Ice Cream

makes about 1 quart

Ingredients

• 5 egg yolks
• 3/4 cup sugar
• pinch salt
• 1 cup milk
• 2 cups heavy cream, divided
• 1 tsp vanilla
• 4 very ripe bananas, mashed or puréed
• 1/2 cup vanilla wafers, broken to small pieces but not crumbs

Method

1. In a medium-size bowl whisk together the egg yolks, sugar, and salt, and set aside.
2. In a medium-sized saucepan, heat the milk and 1 cup of the cream just to a slow boil. Remove from heat and add to the egg mixture, whisking constantly.
3. Pour the mixture back into the saucepan and heat gently, stirring constantly, until a candy thermometer reads 170˚. Do not bring to a boil or it will most likely curdle. Remove from heat and allow to cool for 5 minutes.
4. Pour custard through a fine-mesh strainer into a large bowl. Add the remaining cup of cream and the vanilla, and stir to incorporate. Add the puréed banana and stir to combine.
5. Cover the bowl loosely with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour. When the mixture is cool, cover the bowl completely with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.
6. The next day, pour the mixture into the frozen bowl of your ice cream maker and follow manufacturer's instructions. About 3 minutes before the ice cream is done freezing, add the vanilla wafers.