at summer's end
Andrea
Hello. My name is Andrea. I write this food blog, Bella Eats. You may remember me, or due to my long absence you may not. I’m sorry about that, truly I am. I miss this space! Life has been busy. So so so busy. I started teaching architectural design at the University of Virginia. Teaching. At a University. !!! And before that teaching officially began there was training for teaching. And in the middle of all of that I photographed the wedding of a dear friend I’ve known since the fifth grade. Fifth grade! She was such a beautiful bride, and if you’re interested in seeing some of those images please check out the AHPhoto blog.
Oh, and I started a photography business. Because I love taking pictures of people. And buildings. And food. So if you know anybody who needs somebody to take pictures of people, or buildings, or food...feel free to send them my way. I’d appreciate it so so much. And thank you, all of you, who have commented and tweeted and emailed your support. You’re the best, truly.
And yes, I am still working for an architecture firm here in Charlottesville. So...yeah. Busy.
It feels as though summer has completely passed by Bella Eats. Since June I’ve posted about cherries, blackberries, and blueberries. There have been no luscious heirloom tomatoes, no juice-laden peaches, no golden ears of corn. I even have a new trick for releasing kernels from their cob without making a complete mess of the kitchen counter and floor, and I haven’t had the opportunity to share it with you. That is sad my friends, because this trick is a good one. It will change the way you view corn entirely. Soon, I hope.
Way back in the middle of July our dear friend Kristin celebrated her birthday. She celebrated with us, and with this lime tart topped with blackberries from our garden. Blackberry season is just about over, a sign that summer is drawing to a quick close. Our bush has shed it’s bounty completely, leaving only the tiny shriveled berries that didn’t ever come to full ripeness. Our freezer is packed full of quart-size bags of the frozen fruit, our pantry shelf stocked with various forms of blackberry jam. This tart was one of the last recipes made this summer using berries fresh from the garden, and looking at these pictures already has me feeling nostalgic.
What is it about food that stirs memories stronger than those evoked by any other sense? While blackberries don't take me back to any point of my childhood, they do plop me down solidly in our backyard here in Charlottesville. For the past 4 years we've spent countless July and August evenings standing in our garden, bowls in hand, fingers stained purple, arms eaten by mosquitos, quietly and contently plucking berries one-by-one from a bush WE planted. I know that forever, no matter where we are, when I pop a freshly picked blackberry into my mouth I will be transported back to this place. I love that.
If you’re lucky you can still find pints of deep purple blackberries at your local farmers’ market, and if you do, I recommend you make this dessert before summer's end. The crust is quite perfect, nearly the consistency and flavor of a shortbread cookie. It doesn't flake and melt in your mouth like many pastry shells, but instead offers a firm vessel on which to carry a scoop of zippy lime curd. And scoop you will, because this tart never really sets up to a solid, sliceable state. Which is fine by me. The delightful combination of sweet shortbread, tart curd, and fresh blackberries had us all going back for seconds, despite our use of a spoon rather than a fork.
For the record, I am so unhappy with the spacing that this new Wordpress theme defaults too, but I just haven't had the time/energy to dig into the CSS code to fix it. And, we're working on a redesign of Bella Eats to be launched right around the two year (two years!) anniversary of this site at the end of October. So, please bear with me and the awkward/awful spacing of the text in my recipes... Thank you.
Lime Tart with Blackberries
from bon appetit, June 2010 Ingredients for the lime curd:- 3 large eggs
- 3 large egg yolks
- 1 cup sugar
- 3/4 cup fresh lime juice
- 6 tbsp (3/4 stick) unsalted butter, cut into 6 pieces
- (3) 6-ounce containers fresh blackberries
- 1 tbsp blackberry jam
- 1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature
- 1/4 cup sugar
- 1 large egg yolk
- 1 1/4 cups all purpose flour
- 1 large pinch of salt
- Set a fine metal strainer over a medium bowl and set aside. Whisk the eggs, egg yolks, and sugar in another medium metal bowl to blend. Whisk in lime juice.
- Set bowl over large saucepan of gently simmering water (do not allow bottom of bowl to touch water). Whisk constantly until curd thickens and an instant-read thermometer inserted into curd registers 178ºF to 180ºF, about 6 minutes. Immediately pour curd through prepared strainer set over bowl.
- Add butter to warm strained curd; let stand 1 minute, then whisk until blended and smooth. Press plastic wrap directly onto surface of curd, covering completely. Refrigerate until cold, about 4 hours.*
- Using an electric mixer, beat the butter and sugar in a medium bowl until well blended, 1 to 2 minutes. Add egg yolk; beat to blend. Add flour and salt and mix on low speed until mixture resembles large peas. Using hands, knead in bowl just until dough comes together.
- Transfer dough to a 9-inch diameter tart pan with removable bottom. Break dough into pieces, then press dough evenly up sides and onto bottom of pan. Cover and chill 1 hour.**
- Preheat oven to 350ºF. Uncover crust and bake until golden brown, about 35 minutes. Cool completely in pan on rack.
- Remove sides from tart pan and place crust on plate. Spread lime curd evenly in baked crust. Arrange blackberries in concentric circles on top of tart.
- Place am in small microwave-safe bowl. Heat in microwave until jam is melted, about 15 seconds. Whisk to loosen and blend, adding water by teaspoonfuls if thick. Brush jam over berries.*** (I only brushed jam over the outer ring, because I liked how they looked without the glaze.)

The restaurant and its legendary pie quickly slipped my mind as we moved into a house and started new jobs, busying ourselves with life in Charlottesville and the many culinary delights we have in this little city. I hadn’t thought of my momma’s story in 4 years, until I attended the
The
Despite its petite size,
I chose to tackle the Original Coconut Cream Pie recipe rather than the apple variety my momma had raved about. As the best-selling pie at
And that concludes Bella Eats Pie Month! 5 weeks, 5 varieties, and 5 pounds later, I've learned so much and hope you have too. Please write and tell me about any of these or other pie recipes that you try out this holiday season. I'd love to hear from you.
While I'm ready to take a short break from pie, as are all of our friends and co-workers, I look forward to continuing my experimentation and sharing more pie recipes with you in the future. Here are a few more on my list to try:
As I flew over Charlottesville last Thursday en route to Florida I took note of the fiery colors starting to present themselves in the trees below. The deep orange and bright yellow hues stood out in the dark green forest like fireworks in a midnight sky. Autumnal thoughts quickly left my mind as I jetted towards a weekend to be spent with family and friends in weather that required sundresses and sandals rather than corduroy pants and scarves. Outdoor dining options were declined in favor of cool indoor air conditioning as we all sipped punch made from honeydew, mint and ginger ale. The summertime frame of mind embedded itself so deeply in my subconscious that I boarded the flight home on Sunday in a tank top and flip flops, not thinking about the sub-50-degree air I would be greeted with as I deplaned at CHO.
Despite the 85-degree weather and ever-present green of my home state, during my visit last weekend there were a couple of clues that indicated the current season. The stores there all have the same picked-over Halloween costume aisles and sections devoted to Thanksgiving decorations as we have in Virginia. Restaurant menus show some seasonal specials featuring sweet potatoes and cranberries, and the slight drop in nighttime temperature has Floridians pulling out their lightweight fleece hoodies to protect themselves from the “cold”. The light has changed, lower and more golden that it was when I last visited a few months ago. But the indicator that hit home most with me, that brought back a flood of childhood memories of Autumn in Florida, was the giant box of full-size candy bars I noticed stashed close to the front door at my daddy’s house.
Growing up in Florida, Autumn had a very different feel than it does now that I live in Virginia. In my life now, Autumn means festivals and apple picking, changing leaves and layered clothing. We attend sheepdog trials and buy pumpkins from local farmers, plan parties with locally made hard cider and hand-dipped caramel apples. In Florida, in my youth, I remember the night air turning a little bit cooler and being very, very excited if I spotted a tree changing from green to a pale yellow-brown as I drove past on the interstate. I'd insist on wearing a sweater for Thanksgiving dinner no matter the temperature outside and the fact that I may sweat through it, and longed for a day when I could justify the purchase of a scarf. And then, of course, there was Halloween. For me, Autumn in Florida was all about Halloween.
The party planning started in September. Each year my parents and I (well, my parents, really) hosted a huge Halloween bash at our house, complete with haunted cemetery in the yard, costume contest, bobbing for apples or, when my friends and I all had braces, eating donuts hung from the rafters of our back porch with hands tied behind our backs. Evenings and weekends prior to the big day were spent with my father in the garage, drawing tombstone shapes on giant pieces of foam and cutting them out with a hot knife, the smell of melting styrofoam permeating the space for weeks. Daddy is a perfectionist, so the paint job those tombstones and the corresponding cemetery sign that arched high over the gate to our back yard received was perfect. That was one scary cemetery my friends had to walk through to get to the fun and games.
Come Halloween night, a few days after our party, my father gave, and still gives, full-size candy bars out to trick-or-treaters. Full-size. All of the neighborhood kids know about my dad and the top-notch treats he gives out, which means he buys a lot of candy bars. I enjoyed trick-or-treating as a child, but what I enjoyed even more as a young adult was staying home with Daddy, handing out those candy bars to the costumed youth and hearing the excited tone of their voices as they whispered to each other "see! I told you he gave out the good stuff!" I'd look over at Daddy, who would grin and chuckle and comment on all of their costumes as he dropped bars into their buckets, and smile with pride that I had the cool dad who gave out the good stuff.
That's my daddy, generous to a fault, always giving out the good stuff. Whether it be full-size candy bars to strangers on Halloween, time on the telephone working through digital camera and photography questions or unbelievably kind gifts, he's always striving to put a smile on the faces of those surrounding him. At this time of year, especially, I am nostalgic for my youth and the time I spent with him each fall, wishing I could fold his tradition of handing out full-size candy bars into my life now and regretting that we live in a neighborhood that trick-or-treaters don't visit. So instead, I made Daddy's favorite kind of pie and thought ahead to Thanksgiving, when we'll sit around the same table with Brian and all of my stepfamily and enjoy an Autumn meal together.
I tried out two different pecan pie recipes this week along with two different crusts. The first is more of an old-fashioned pecan pie, the filling made with dark brown sugar, butter, egg and a splash of bourbon with the pecan halves kept intact. The second pie filling consisted of a little bit of dark brown sugar paired with a lot more corn syrup, butterscotch chips, eggs and chopped pecans. They were both delicious, although there was a definite favorite amongst those surveyed at my office and in our home. I am hesitant to tell you which it was, as both recipes are great and I really recommend that you choose your favorite based on your own tastes.
Devoid of corn syrup, this pie has the dense texture that I associate with the old-fashioned pecan pie. It is sweet, being mostly sugar, but the bourbon adds a nice mild kick to the bite and a pleasant aftertaste that cuts the sweetness quite successfully.
With corn syrup used as the main sweetener and the addition of butterscotch chips, this pie is ultra-sweet. The filling is silkier than the pie above, and the chopped pecans make each bite more consistent in texture. I loved the addition of butterscotch in this pie, and know my daddy will too as he is a big fan of those little golden chips.
Joy is right - this pie crust is easy! If you're wanting to make a crust without much notice, or are intimidated by crusts that require rolling, this recipe is for you. The final texture was more crumbly than flakey and reminded me of the consistency of a shortbread cookie. But it held together nicely when sliced and has a pleasant, mild flavor.
Ok, so this crust IS pretty perfect. It is an all-shortening crust, which I've never made before, and I was incredibly impressed with the flakey result. The flavor was delicious (although not as good as all butter, in my opinion) and the texture couldn't be beat . One warning, it shrinks with baking, as shortening literally "shortens" the gluten strands in the dough even more so than butter. Before pre-baking, the crust pictured below reached the top of my pie pan. So, be sure not to fill the crust as much as you normally would if you don't pre-bake.
I've decided to extend Bella Eats Pie Month into November for one more week, so be sure to visit next Thursday for the last installment, Coconut Cream Pie, along with a review of
Our car winds its way up the narrow gravel road to the top of
Once parked we make our way through the crowd towards the renovated barn, dodging bundled-up children being pulled in bright red Radio Flyer wagons by slightly-frazzled parents. The smell of freshly baked apple pie and apple cider doughnuts fills the air as we find the ‘pick-your-own’ information kiosk, grab a bag, ask about availability and set off on our hunt for sweet and crisp Fuji apples. We continue our journey towards the top of the mountain, this time on foot, huffing and puffing just a little as I am reminded again of why I should wear sturdier shoes on these treks. Fifteen minutes later we have found rows full of our target. The bright pink globes dance in the wind and beg to be picked, and I am thankful again that Brian is tall and can reach the otherwise unattainable perfect specimens near the tops of the trees.
We fill our first bag, saving the second for a bin full of bright green Granny Smiths calling our name back at the barn. The pick-your-own trees once dripping with that variety were stripped the previous two weekends during the
I knew from the first moment that Brian and I started talking about
I really wanted to try something new (to us, at least) for Pie Month, and so started to look into apple pie variations. Initially Brian balked, for even though he is a fan of the apple cranberry pie I make every year, he is truly a classicist when it comes to his favorite dishes and was not keen on the idea of my shaking things up. Until a reader, Hannah, was sweet enough to send me her grandmother’s recipe for Cheddar Apple Pie. Cheddar? Apples? Yum! I’m embarrassed to say that we’d never even heard of such a pie in our household, not even the Wisconsin tradition of layering a slice of cheddar across a warm slice of freshly-baked apple pie. The idea appealed to both of us, especially Brian’s not-so-sweet tooth, and so Cheddar Apple Pie was penciled into the agenda.
A bit more research later, and I discovered that I’d overlooked the
As with most recipes I've tried from within the pages of Gourmet, this one came together beautifully. Once the dough softened up a bit and stopped giving me a killer upper-body workout, it was a dream to work with. No tears or splits or crumbles except for at the edges. The slight sweetness of the filling was perfectly balanced by the savory tone of the crust, which flaked just as it was meant to and melted away on the tongue. The cheddar added a nice punch that left me wishing I had baked off the scraps leftover after trimming the pie's edge, imagining that pairing those crispy strips with slices of fresh apple would have provided a perfect afternoon snack.
The not-too-sweet nature of this pie was the perfect follow-up to the rich chocolate + caramel pies I was producing last week. If you have loved ones who aren't big dessert fans, who just don't have much of a sweet tooth, this pie is the answer to your "what shall I make" questions. Even Brian, who has been known to pass up cake / cookies / pie / ice cream in favor of an extra helping of meat or mashed potatoes, consumed multiple pieces of this pie in a day. And then did it again the next. This pie is a winner, indeed.
I had an additional apple pie planned for the week, a
Cheddar-Crusted Apple Pie
Notes:
About a year ago, my momma started talking to me about a chocolate mousse pie. Or, more specifically, a chocolate mousse pie whose mousse was so delectable that she and my stepfather decided to eliminate the crust, and therefore the element that made the dessert a “pie”, altogether. They’d served the mousse at a few dinner gatherings and even to my stepbrother (who is notoriously picky and known to complain about most dishes that come from our parents’ kitchen) with much success. “You’ve GOT to make it sweetie”, she’d say, “Its just soooooo yummy!”
I put it off because, honestly, I’m not a big chocolate mousse fan. Give me a slice of
But my momma, she’s stubborn. She was determined that I would like THIS chocolate mousse and so added it to the dessert menu for our Christmas meal last year. I’m willing to try anything, but honestly, I was looking forward to the
When the
There's something you should know about me...I'm a tweaker. I like to experiment with recipes, especially baked goods, to make them my own. My momma sent me the chocolate mousse recipe, which my stepfather had modified slightly from
Determined to prove him wrong, I set to work last Sunday morning on my Chocolate and Salted Caramel Mousse Pie (pictured in photos above). I tweaked the chocolate mousse (
And so I moved on to plan B. I had this feeling that because both the chocolate and caramel layers were light and mousse-like, they oozed together in your mouth without maintaining their own identities and created a bite that was overwhelmingly rich. After some consultation with Brian and my Momma, I decided to try a pure caramel layer topped by the same chocolate mousse along with a new cookie crust, having not been completely thrilled with Emeril's mix of chocolate cookies and graham crackers in the first pie.
(Have I mentioned how easy it is to make homemade salted caramel? SO easy. TOO easy. There have been visions of caramel apples and caramel candies and caramel sauce for ice cream swimming in my head since I learned how easy it is. Yum.)
As it turns out, pure caramel doesn't adhere well to chocolate cookie crust. After placing a slice of pie #2 on a plate to serve, I watched as the mousse and caramel slowly slid down the length of the shell that was meant to keep the slice intact and maintain its shape. Even after an overnight rest in the freezer, it took a mere 5 minutes out before the caramel started oozing from beneath the chocolate mousse, lethargically making its protest at being forced to share the stage with another star.
Apparently, my parents DO know a little something about desserts - the chocolate mousse is perfect on its own.
So, here is my recommendation after this week of experimentation. Make the chocolate mousse. Put it into a chocolate cookie crust and place the whole pie in the freezer for a few hours. Serve with a generous blob of homemade whipped cream. Pure. Simple. Delicious. And if you're dying to try the salted butter caramel, DO! Just coat an apple with it or drizzle it over ice cream. It deserves its own spotlight.
Or better yet, follow Helen's instructions for her
Chocolate Mousse Pie
adapted from
Up next Thursday on Bella Eats Pie: Apple!
And, I'm going to try really hard to get some savory fall dinner posts up in between...
Last Thursday at approximately 12:00pm I learned of the
I told myself that there was a reason for that expression and that, despite my lack of knowledge of pie baking, the task at hand was really a simple one. I had Thursday night to make two test pies trying out two different crust recipes and two different filling combinations, Friday evening to make a final test pie using the knowledge I gained from my first two pies and Friday night to assemble and bake my final entry. No problem.
I found two reliable sources for the base pie crust (or, pâte brisée) recipes,
For the filling, I found a handy ratio in
But still, Friday morning Brian helped me carry the two pies (one apple-plum, one pure plum), a server, plates and forks to our office, where I received feedback from seven more people. We all agreed on the too much juice issue, but opinions varied on the preferred crust and filling. In the end, I went with my preference (and luckily Brian’s too, whose palate I trust implicitly) and advice from
I was so convinced that the third test pie would be a winner. So convinced. We invited a couple of friends over for the final testing and pulled the lattice-topped beauty out of the oven to great fanfare and raised glasses. We let it sit on the stovetop for an hour, until we could stand the wait no longer, and then dug in. And the pie was soggy. And less cohesive than the first two pies had been. And I had no more ideas about how to fix it.
By this point it was 11:30pm, 12 hours before I was supposed to be at the
As I mentioned
The use of tapioca wasn't the only important lesson learned in this process, either through my own experimentation or from the numerous websites and cookbooks I consulted. Below is a list of points about raw fruit pies that I plan to never forget, and I hope that you all will chime in with any lessons of your own.
Important Points for Raw Fruit Pies
Sugar Plum Pie with Lemon Almond Crust
crust adapted from
Next up: Chocolate Mousse Pie
So many delicious-looking pies...
The judging begins...
The spectators are allowed to join in the fun...
And only shrapnel remains...
To read more about the event, check out
This Thursday I'll start Bella Eats Pie Month with a recap of the trials and tribulations for the Italian Plum Pie I had hoped to enter in
What is your favorite holiday dessert?